Monday, March 8, 2010

Carnaval!

Carnaval is the two week period coinciding with Mardi Gras in which there are many parades, festivals, and plenty of tourists in Nice. Place Masséna was transformed into the bustling center of Carnaval-- bleachers were erected, murals were hung, and this is where the King and Queen of Carnaval resided. So, Carnaval began a few days before Mardi Gras this year, but typically ends that day, since carnaval literally means "farewell to meat" since Lent is a time during which people do not eat meat. I was also told that hundreds of years ago Carnaval was the only time during which people could criticise the King-- thus the crowning of the King every year.

Each year there is a theme of Carnaval and all the floats are centered on this theme. In 2007 when I was here, it was Rugby and the King was a caricature of Jacques Chirac dressed in rugby get-up. (France really enjoys their political caricatures. remember this for later.) This year, the theme was "Roi de la planète bleue" or King of the Blue World and it had a very ecological feel to it. Personally, I found this years floats to be really beautiful and so much better than '07.

Okay, Happenings: Carnaval has three different Corso's or parades, that repeat almost daily during the 2 week festival. The first is the typical Corso Carnavalesque. The King and Queen start the parade, followed by all the other floats which you can only catch at the parade. Then, the Corso Illuminé is the same parade, but at night, which gives it a much more festive atmosphere-- lights and confetti everywhere! This was my personal favorite and I can say that I attended the same parade about 3 times. Then, the last parade is called the Bataille des Fleurs (Flower Battle) and this is completely different. In this parade all the floats are made of flowers, and there are many dancers and bands. This parade you must buy tickets for to gain entry, and the people on the floats throw flowers at you to take home-- mostly mimosas, with the occasional daisy, palm branch, carnation, etc. This year I had spent most of my Feb mad money and did not really wish to pay to see this parade. Sorry, no pics :/

Perhaps the best (or worst, if you're crotchety) part of Carnaval is that it really feels like a party in the streets. Children dress-up for every parade (moreso than Halloween) and confetti and silly string ("bombe serpentine"/ snake bomb) are sold by street vendors. If you escape without being adorned with these things, you weren't having fun! Immediately following the parades the street sweepers are out in number trying to clean up the trash. I found it ironic that this years theme was all about saving the planet and not wasting, but think of how much paper and aerosol was used in the floats, silly string and confetti! Enough yapping, I'll get to the pictures now :)


Le Roi du Carnaval (The King)


La Reine (the Queen)

Oh, like I said, the theme was all about saving the planet, so there was one float with babies depicting the "generation to save the planet", one was the ailing world personnified--complete with pills, thermometer, needles, IV, and a missle in the buttocks; a noah's ark where the animals had tied up Noah, etc. Then, along comes....

Super Obama! Here to save the world! (I swear, he is more of a celebrity here than in the US!)


Caricatures from years past, found on the beach by Dad and I. This is both former president Chirac and current president Nicolas Sarkozy looking a little worse for the wear!


The King all lit up during the Corso Illuminé (He was def my favorite float, with Superbama in a close second)


The mascot of Carnaval as seen on all the posters. Loved this little guy!


Adorable kids at Carnaval, confetti in hand :)


Carnaval brings many many many (too many?) tourists to the area, so there are many street artists trying to earn a few bucks (remind me to tell you the story about the cat guy! ugh) This is Michael Jackson, and he was doing his thing back in '07 when I remember seeing him gyrating on traffic posts on the promenade. Creepy? Yes. But, he was doing it before MJ died, so you gotta admire the dedication.


The last day of Carnaval, in true French Revolutionary form, the King is sent out to sea and burned! I sadly missed this in '07 because I was in London, so I was determined to see it this year and am I ever glad I did! There was a bit of confusion, but around 9 o'clock the announcer at the office du tourisme asked us to turn towards the water and bid farewell to the King. Fireworks shot out of his crown and the bottom of the float, causing him to catch fire, and it was a rapid burn! Soooo cool, but not over yet. Then, there was a few seconds of a lightshow where the Colline du Chateau (hill of the castle) was illuminated with red lights and smoke to look like it, too was burning. Then, the fireworks started! I LOVE fireworks and I can honestly say these were some of the best I've ever seen. My friends and I had picked the perfect spot to stand for the 30 odd minute show, set to music, that included some of the prettiest fireworks-- plus it was over the Mediterranean! It was the perfect ending to Carnaval and made me want to come back in the future, if only for the great fireworks!

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